Pizza-Maker and Burger Prince, Matt Hyland, Talks Risk, Cooking and Creativity

Matthew Hyland is a chef who set out to make a name for himself in New York’s pizza scene, only to discover that his burger might be more famous than his pies. 

An alum of ICE’s Culinary Arts program, Hyland approaches cooking with a willingness to break rules that stand in the way of creativity. Whether experimenting with wood-fired doughs or turning out Detroit-style squares, he’s known for his laid-back takes on tradition. 

A native of the Tri-State area, Hyland worked in several New York kitchens before launching Emily in 2014 and Emmy Squared in 2016. In 2017, Star Chefs named Matt and his then partner Rising Star Concept Chef for Emmy Squared, and since opening, both restaurants have been mainstays on year-end and best-of lists from TimeOut, Bon Appetit, Eater, and Zagat, among others.  

For his success, Hyland credits his employees, mentors, and a healthy appetite for risk. 

In a recent conversation, we discussed his ICE experience, being a dad while working in a demanding industry, and why a misstep in the kitchen can be just as rewarding as triumph. 

* The following interview has been condensed and edited for clarity.

ICE: What do you consider to be your biggest professional achievements so far?

Matthew Hyland: My biggest achievement so far is trying to open a great pizza place but ending up with a famous burger! It’s a reminder that cooking is a journey. I’m also very proud of all my employees who worked so hard to make these accomplishments happen.

ICE: Can you describe your creative process?

MH: Most of my creativity comes from imagining how classic and new creative dishes can be made more casual. I love foie and Tokaj, but it’s not right for my restaurants, so I might turn it into a chicken liver mousse with a Madeira gel — same richness and sweetness, but more approachable. Tradition is great, but if it stops you from making the best possible food, you have to go your own way. Part of what’s made me successful is not taking everything so seriously.

ICE: What does a typical day look like for you, and what do you love most about your work?

MH: Right now, my days revolve around my two- and four-year-old [kids]. They’re more of a handful than any restaurant I’ve ever run. But when I’m in the kitchen, the best part is the freedom to create. It’s satisfying to make a dish that works, and honestly thrilling when one fails — because I learn from it and move on. It’s all part of the process.

ICE: When you think of the Ģ����Ƶ, what’s the first word that comes to mind, and why?

MH: Elegance. It’s a beautiful place to learn with some of the best chefs in the world. They teach you to respect everything from the raw ingredients to the pans and the spoons.

ICE: When did you realize you had a passion for food, and when did that turn into “I want to work in food?”

MH: I was nine, and obsessed with cooking eggs — always with hot sauce, in a tortilla. One holiday, my aunt Marianne bought me a tiny nonstick pan to make my egg cooking exponentially easier. When I put oil in it and shook the pan, this spray of fire shot forward like fireworks. It was then I knew I needed to be a chef and be around the excitement of the kitchen.

 My Aunt Marianne also bought me my first real knife when I graduated from culinary school. Thanks a second time!

ICE: Before you enrolled, what made ICE feel like a good fit?

MH: I loved the cooking studios and the location. I took a tour but didn’t enroll immediately. I took a job first, and while I was on the train, I noticed I forgot to change out of my chef pants. A man approached me and asked me if I was a chef. I told him I just started cooking and I wanted to go to culinary school. He asked which one, and I said ICE. He pulled out his business card, and it said “Admissions Director” for ICE! It was a sign, and I enrolled the next day.

ICE: Do you have a core ICE memory, maybe a proud achievement or recipe that captivated you?

MH: I made a veal saltimbocca in class one day, but instead of Marsala, I accidentally used Madeira. said it was the best rendition of the dish he had ever had, and everyone was always trying to impress him. Whether or not that was true, it was a happy accident that turned out great.

ICE: What did you learn at ICE that helped you at the start of your career?

MH: Cooking is a learning process, and we are always learning new techniques no matter how long we have been in the business. If you see a new technique, always question why it’s done this way.

ICE helped me look at cooking with both love and curiosity.

ICE: How was that student-to-real-world transition for you. Was it what you expected?

MH: It was a shocker. You cook in a low-stakes environment in culinary school, so when you get out, it is a whole new experience of speed and accuracy. A lot of the techniques you learned come into play, but you also have to learn new ones immediately. It was actually fun to make the jump and take on that challenge.

ICE: Is there a single lesson from ICE you still use in your work today?

MH: I still use — well, hoard — the appropriate amount of side towels in service. We were issued several when we got our uniform at ICE, and using two per class meant I didn’t have to frequently do laundry.

ICE: What would you say to people looking to follow a career path similar to yours?

MH: Take the risk and pave your own path. But before you do, learn from people who know way more than you.

My advice for future students is to go for it! It doesn’t matter the reason. Be a chef, be a home cook — cooking skills are invaluable.

ICE: Is there a person, book, or place you consider a major inspiration?

MH: Luca Arrigoni from Sottocasa in Brooklyn. He gave me a shot to make pizza when everyone else turned me down. He took the time to show me the “why” of pizza. He let me get all kinds of ingredients and experiment with the staff meal. He’s a true teacher and master of the craft.

 Little did each of us know I was able to learn the wood-fired oven in only a few days because my skills from playing lacrosse growing up translated seamlessly into using a pizza peel!

ICE: Can you talk about mentors and protégés who stand out?

MH: My chef, Sammy Pico, at Emily in Clinton Hill. He is my most proud accomplishment. He started out as a prep cook, but his positivity and ambitious attitude got him cooking on the line with me very shortly. We cooked, plated, and served every burger together for years! He finally took over as Head Chef, where he rightfully belongs.

ICE: Food-wise or dessert-wise, do you have a “guilty pleasure?”

MH: Soft pretzels are my go-to. Specifically, and the ones from Redding Terminal in Philadelphia.

ICE: Conversely, is there a food or ingredient you’ve tried to love but just can’t?

MH: Celery root. Sorry, Mom.

Quickfire Questions

Favorite kitchen tool? Perforated Kunz spoon.
Salty or sweet? Salty. Pecorino on everything. 
Favorite food holiday? Christmas in Texas = Tamale time!
Favorite food city? No contest – it’s New Orleans. 
In what order do you prefer to cook, bake, eat? Cook, eat, bake.
Favorite cuisine? Seafood from New England to Charleston. 
Go-to “easy” recipe? Cherry tomatoes sliced and salted with avocado, balsamic, and EVOO (extra virgin olive oil). 
Go-to “wow” recipe? Burgers. Is that a recipe? 
Most frequently used ingredient (beyond basic pantry staples)? Broadbent Kentucky bacon. I use it in place of guanciale, which is a necessity in any Roman pasta!
Spring, summer, fall, or winter — favorite food season? Spring! Love my baby veggies.